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Borderlands: Border Food Folkways From the Editor 9 (1991)

A unique resource of faculty edited college student articles on the history and culture of the El Paso, Juárez, and Southern New Mexico regions.

Border Food Folkways

Article first published in Vol. 9, 1991.

Volume 9 Cover

This issue of Borderlands concentrates on the unique food of culture of our part of the world. The topics only begin to scratch the surface of this large subject. Students could choose any topic, as long as it was related to border food culture. Thus we have articles on the industrial uses of chile, the healing uses of foods and herbs, the relationship of food and pottery, a history of chile and corn and the health benefits of beans, in addition to articles detailing the variations of border foods, including Mediterranean cuisine. Some articles deal with familiar territory, like the one on menudo, while others explore more unusual facets of border cuisine, like those on the many uses of the pig and edible deserts plants.

The word "variations" is important when dealing with the folklore of any people. A student of folklore is interested in the variations in customs, traditions, behavior. People who enjoy border food know that no one prepares enchiladas, tacos, guacamole or any other dish quite the same way. And the farther away from El Paso that we travel, the wider the variation until a chile relleno becomes a stuffed bell pepper, chile loses its heat and is more like tomato sauce, and the only tamales available are stuffed into a can.

It is no coincidence that former Southwestern residents visit often, taking back chorizo and tamales in small ice chests, bags of dried New Mexico chile in their luggage, and their stomachs full of "real" Mexican food. Even today when Mexican food has entered the American culinary mainstream, really tasty border food for former residents is hard to find outside the Southwest. One of the last traits of any ethnic group to disappear through assimilation is food preferences and methods of preparation. My students discovered this when they began interviewing members of their family about different foods and customs. Students sometimes argued long and loud when other students announced their way of making a certain dish was the way.

Students learned that what they ate, when they ate it, and how they ate it really reflected their culture. They learned that in some cases, they were eating a food prepared in much the same way it was hundreds of years ago, such us the corn tortilla. They researched the history of customs they retained from previous generations without knowing the underlying purpose, such us El Dia de los Muertos. They learned how their ancestors planted or harvested or prepared foods that are now eaten in a different form.

The articles began as lengthy research papers in English 3112 (Research & Critical Writing) classes. Students were required to use many sources, including interviews, and the papers were written in formal academic English. Under the tutelage of my colleague, Carroll Ferguson Nardone, Mass Communication instructor, students briefly studied the form and purpose of the journalistic feature article and wrote the lead for a proposed story based on their research. Some individuals and one small class pursued this process for quite a while until they had turned a 2000 word academic paper into a short journalistic feature article, complete with illustrations or photographs.

The articles, all written by EPCC students, were further edited by Borderlands editors and advisors, with each editing producing another draft. Artwork and photographs also are by EPCC students, with rare exceptions. We hope you enjoy the fruits of our labor and the food that goes with it!

Photo of Ruth Vise

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ruth E. Vise, Faculty Editor

 

From the Staff (Volume 9)

By Lynn A. Cordova, A. Eric Bangs, and Annette M. Mowad

We, the student staff of Borderlands, are representative of the broad spectrum of El Paso's population. The three of us are transplants form different parts of the country, and the appealing diversity of this area's culture makes us happy to call El Paso our home.

Before Eric Bangs moved to El Paso, he had traveled widely and had a great many misconceptions about this area and the people who live here. From movies and neighbors who had been to El Paso, he had pictured a place where nearly everyone spoke Spanish and haute cuisine was the enchilada. Now, four years later, he has grown to appreciate El Paso's multitude of cultures.

Image caption: Editor: Lynn A. Cordova; Assistant Editor: A. Eric Bangs; Editorial Assistant: Annette M. Mowad. Faculty Advisor: Ruth E. Vise

Volume 9 cover

Annette Mowad has spent almost her entire life here in El Paso, and is fortunate to have a large close-knit family. Working on Borderlands as a journalism major, she has learned a great deal about her own cultural heritage, both Mexican and Lebanese. She is now more aware of the rich traditions and history behind everyday life in our borderland area.

Lynn Cordova, who has been named an honorary Mexican-American by her mother-in-law, is a working mother, wife, drafting student and scout leader. Originally from Lubbock, Texas, she encountered a completely different culture when she moved to El Paso twenty years ago. And when she married a third generation El Pasoan, she enriched her knowledge of the Mexican culture by learning everything she could about her husband's family and their customs.

As editors of Borderlands, the best experience has been being able to read about the food that we eat and the customs we follow and take for granted. Learning the intricate history behind ordinary folk dishes and traditions was fascinating. Our challenge then was to express our enjoyment and informative magazine.

The papers provided to us by the English 3112 students at El Paso Community College were filled with a great deal of valuable research and information. English 3112 is a research paper writing course. We spent much time learning the journalistic writing and editing processes so that we could turn academic research papers into feature stories. We are grateful for all of the students' hard work involved in the research that made this experience both edifying and fun.

There were many family members who contributed to this project. Grandmothers, mothers and aunts, uncles and brothers were sources for many of the interviews. We feel Borderlands is a presentation not only by EPCC students, but also a contribution from our families and friends to the border community.

¡ Buen provecho!

EPCC


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